223) Adding Water Storage

by Gail on August 27, 2015

We’ve had a four-month drought here in the “rainforest” of southwestern British Columbia.

When we built our house and landscaped the yard, we installed a 2000 gallon rainwater storage cistern. The water is used to flush our toilets and water the garden.

I never knew how much water we would need for those purposes, but now I do. For the first four normal summers, the cistern did the job, because we had enough rain.Gail Hunt Rooftop Garden

Last summer was hot and dry, and I had to fill the cistern twice with district-supplied tap water.

This summer, I’ve already filled the cistern four times. 

We’re on Stage 4 watering restrictions: NO use of outside taps.

Any water we need to keep our trees, shrubs, perennials, annuals, and veggies alive has to come from bath/shower/dishwater (greywater). Plus, we’re encouraged to bathe less often and conserve water inside.grey water for garden

What I’m getting at: we should have installed at least another 2000 gallons-worth of water storage underground when we were building.

The best we can do now is add water storage above ground. I have had two rain barrels, but they’re inadequate. watering the orchard

So, we had Alli and Paul of Rain Farmers , a new business on the Sunshine Coast, haul and install two new tanks with a total of 721 gallons of new storage (or approximately 3000 liters).

They water the garden by gravity feed.

The round 421-gallon German-made Hercules tank is located in an area not too visible from the house. The “before” photo is below. Scroll down for the “after”. It will need to be filled from the cistern with the pressurized standpipe.

And here’s where I chose to have the 300-gallon narrow profile tank installed to collect water from the downspout.

The overflow goes back into the storm sewer.

You can see that it’s hard to hide! I plan to build a little seating area/shelter/plantings that will cover most of it. But, that could take years at the rate I’m going here. I spray-painted the white pipe black, because that’s what I had on hand, and it’s better than white. The big Leaf-eater attachment (at the top of the photo) keeps debris out of the tank. It’s a sealed system with no light allowed inside, so shouldn’t be troubled with algae.

Alli and Paul were efficient and enthusiastic. They arrived when they said they would (or gave me notice if they had to change the times.) I recommend their services.

And, I like to support local entrepreneurs. That’s one of the tenets of building green.

Now, let’s see if I can keep my valuable plants alive. pallet planters

Rain is expected tomorrow. Talk about timing!

Brussels sprouts in remay


Sharing with: Savvy Southern Style, Tuesday Garden Party



222) Concrete Countertops – Prototype

by Gail on February 16, 2015

house with metal roof.jpgWell, I know I declared This Green House finished in 2014, only 5 years after we started building.

But, the truth is: there will always be more tasks when you build your own house – some of them fun, and some of them fraught with difficulty. Concrete countertops fall into the second category for me.

It was always my intention to replace the temporary plywood countertops with concrete countertops I make.laundry alley before

I am ever-so-slightly risk averse, not-to-mention a scaredy cat. (Is that the same thing?)

Making 23 lineal feet of concrete countertop is a big deal.

But, I have a couple of test projects. One is the very simple countertop in our laundry alley, above the two pull-out (dark and light) laundry drawers. It measures 35″x 25.5″, and has no sink or knockouts of any kind.laundry counter before

Piece o’ cake, right?

Well, maybe not piece o’ cake, but about as simple as it gets for a countertop. A good learning exercise.

To start, I read this bible of countertops cover-to-cover:concrete countertop book

I have come to the conclusion that most of the YouTubes and blogs filmed and written about most any subject are not offered by experts. Some of the info is downright erroneous. And some dangerous. At the very least, they will make my DIY job more difficult. They are written by people like me, who have tried something once or twice and are telling our stories. But, we’re hardly experts.

So, I go to the experts. One of the experts is my supplier of the concrete mix: StarPatch Concrete. I visit their showroom and call them whenever I need advice, and they patiently answer my questions.

I still make mistakes. But that is how I learn.

So, here’s my experience for this learning piece, complete with the lessons I’m learning.

I used the temporary plywood countertop as my template, because it’s already been cut to fit. Since I planned to prepare a mould rather than casting the countertops in place in the kitchen, I turn it upside down and mark the front of the mould. On the table saw, I cut strips of what we call Melmac, although I think there are other brand names for similar plastic-coated pressboard. The width of the strips determine the thickness of the countertop – in this case 1.5″, plus 3/4″ for the plywood base = 2.25″.

After drilling pilot holes for the drywall screws, I screw the strips onto the plywood template with drywall screws, making sure each upper edge has a screw at the corner so the concrete won’t push the top of the mould apart.

Then, I apply tape on either side of all the joins, about 1/4″ away from the join, so that when I apply black silicone caulk, the edges will be perfectly straight after I smooth it out with a gloved finger or a caulk applicator.

After the caulk has dried, I pull off the tape.tape and silicone

In my prototype, I wanted to make a surface treatment with some agate slices and concrete colourant. This is the part that can go badly wrong, and I would say it did, to some degree. I applied a very thin layer of black silicone to the agate slices, and adhered them to the bottom of the form, which is, of course, the top of the countertop.removing silicone tape on countertop mould

Then, I sprinkled some mocha and black colourant in a not very planned design. Didn’t love the way it looked, so I took a small paintbrush to spread it around differently. I truly didn’t know how this would work.

Next, I cut a 2×2 wire grid to fit inside the mould, about 1/2″ away from the sides and back, and about 1.5″ away from the front of the form (these wire strengtheners can ghost through to the concrete surface, so I kept them away from the visible parts of the finished countertop.) With small wire hooks, I suspended the 2×2 wire about 1″ from the bottom of the mould.countertop mould ready for concrete

With the mould ready, I turned my attention to mixing the concrete.

By my figuring and the estimator on the StarPatch site, for my .8 cubic foot volume I needed 1.5 bags of the countertop mix (50 lb bags). I mixed each bag with a flow kit (a powder from StarPatch) and 4 litres (4 quarts) of water. One bag worth easily fit into a 5 gallon bucket (sorry about mixing Imperial and Metric measurements. Such is our lot in Canada.) The mixing paddle fits on a 1/2″ drill.mixing countertop mix in bucket

Now I wish I had mixed it in the wheelbarrow with a hoe, as I did whenever I was mixing mortar for the stonework on the house. It’s easier to get a good mix. IF I decide to do the kitchen countertops, I will rent a cement mixer. The goal is thick like oatmeal, not runny. The drier the mix is, the stronger the bond.

By the trowelful at first, and then, when the pail became lighter so I could lift it, I poured it into the mould, pushing the concrete into all the corners and voids (or so I thought.) I have no photos of this step or the next two, because it is such a hectic time. Turned out I had to mix more mid-pour, which made me all the more anxious. My total to fill the mould ended up being 1.75 bags.

To settle the concrete into the mould and eliminate voids (again, so-I-thought), with a palm-sander, I vibrated all around the mould 3 times, plus banging the whole mould down on the table once or twice.

With a board, I screeded the full mould to level the concrete, and then let it sit undisturbed for about 30 minutes.finished wet concrete in mould

Then, I used a rounded metal trowel to “float” the surface.

When it was “leatherhard”, after about 90 more minutes, I used a metal trowel to trowel the surface smooth, and an edging trowel to curve the edges of the concrete.

I left it to cure for 5 days. SOOOOO curious, but I couldn’t peak until it was cured.

Took out all the screws holding the mould together:remove screws in concrete mould

Pulled off the sides strips of the mould, and then, with my cousin Chris and D for muscle, turned it upside down and carefully pried off the plywood base.

To reveal…….

Ta! Da!

A gawdawful mess – yuck. unmoulded countertop

You can see all the voids, and the concrete colourant looked like a dog’s breakfast.

Here’s a closeup:unmoulded concrete bug holes

And, it was at this point that I somehow changed the borrowed camera’s setting to a “tint”, which means that some of the next photos are black and white with a feature colour tint (what the heck?)

My response to the great unveiling was to walk away until the next day, when I decided to experiment with it. I could hardly make it look worse.

First, I dipped a cloth in water to wipe away the powdered colourant that was just sitting on the surface. It just made a mess as I wiped it off. Worse, it revealed even more faults, surface cracks and discolouration.

But then I started noticing how the colour settled into surface imperfections, and the whole surface started to look like a combination of marble and pitted sandstone! I was beginning to warm to the look.concrete slab before repair

So, I decided to fill the “bug holes” with a slurry to see how that would look. My go-to guy at StarPatch suggested I sift out the fibre and the larger sandsifting concrete mix for a slurry

and mix the resulting powder with water and a bonding agent (1:4 with water) to fill the holes. In retrospect, I should have used a finer seive, because the slurry is too granular.

applying slurry to concrete countertopI pasted the whole surface with a gloved hand, and then scraped it off, so that it looked hazy like grout on tile.

Impatiently, I started wiping it down, first with water, then at the suggestion of a YouTube video, vinegar. It did get the slurry off, but the bug holes were somewhat depressed because it hadn’t hardened enough before I started cleaning it (and still granular.) Goodness, this is a lot of rash decision-making, kind of panicky.

I blundered on.

Decided it was time to grind and polish with my wet grinder.wet grinding concrete countertop

As I started to polish, I noticed the only part I was liking (the marbled look) was being ground off to reveal the pure white underneath. So, I stopped grinding, and put some more powder on my cloth to re-colour the surface imperfections.

There comes a time in any artist’s project that she needs to decide when the work is “finished.” Seldom easy for me. But, this is the point where my experimentation ends with this prototype countertop. I decided to leave well enough alone, and stop working on it.

So I scraped the black silicone off the agate slices, cleaned the surface with water and let it dry overnight.

I still have half a bucket of Broda Clarity sealer left from finishing our concrete floors, and applied three coats with a micro-fibre cloth. You can see the first coat started here, and the difference between the raw concrete and the sealant applied.before and after concrete sealerIf this were a kitchen countertop, it would not be acceptable, because the depressions would trap bacteria. As a sealed laundry countertop, it will work.

A real learning piece for me, and beautiful in its own way. The jury is still out on whether I will attempt the kitchen countertops. I will apply what I learned to a bathroom countertop next, and gain more confidence before I commit.

Here’s the finished countertop, and the before and after.

finished laundry concrete countertop


before & after laundry counter

Thank you for hanging in there until the end! (The countertop saga to be continued.)concrete counter with colour added

Sharing with these link parties:

Cozy Little House , Boogieboard Cottage, Lavender Cottage, Home Stories A – Z, Dwellings – The Heart of Your Home, Elizabeth & Co, Savvy Southern Style (Featured!DIY By Design




221) Merry Merry at This Green House

December 23, 2014

I’m wishing you a wonderful and warm holiday season with family, chosen family, and friends. A story: A  year and a half ago, I applied for a GST/HST rebate on our build. A few months later, I received an answer from the Canada Revenue Agency (CRA), telling me our rebate was denied, because the agent decided that […]

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220) Greenhouse at This Green House

November 11, 2014

Oh, boy! I’m excited! We have finally built that greenhouse, on the concrete pad that was poured ‘way back here. We were gifted 25 plates of tempered glass from a condo balcony remodel that was headed for the landfill. Some of them were used in our balcony railings and one was broken. Sixteen odd-sized pieces remain. WWOOFer Tim re-measured […]

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219) R.I.P. Bosch Angle Grinder

October 8, 2014

Just as I was nearing completion of the stone facing on the greenhouse, my trusty Bosch Angle Grinder died. My masonry teacher, Serge, said I would go through 2 or 3 of these before the house was done. It has seen me through the masonry on the whole house exterior Plus the pizza patio Plus […]

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218) Fold-down Bed

August 5, 2014

As I mentioned in this post, we’re working up to twenty beds in This Green House. The studio has already been used as an add-on bedroom (see this post: Make Your Own Bed) but we wanted something more comfortable and permanent. After Rob the carpenter was here doing our “Sprint to the Finish,” I sent him […]

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217) Rainwater Harvest Waterfall Feature

July 21, 2014

  Whenever we tour new visitors around our house and yard (quite a common occurrence here), there’s a lot of interest in our water feature. We have quite an elevation drop from the entry level to the back yard. So, to indulge ourselves myself with a luxury, we hired a rainwater harvesting contractor to build a […]

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216) Patio Plantings

June 24, 2014

Our patio has been functional for a few months now, and we have even had a few pizza parties. I haven’t yet reported on the plantings around it, so this post outlines my rationale for the landscape design. It’s a challenging slope – maybe 50 degrees. WWOOFers (WorldWide Opportunities on Organic Farms) and I have […]

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215) S.T.T.F. Final Day (11) Loft Beds

May 28, 2014

I have told you about the construction of curtain frames for our loft’s twin beds. Rob, our Sprint to the Finish (S.T.T.F.) carpenter built them, as well as doors for the storage underneath. Inspired to re-create the romance of train bed berths, I asked him to craft valances from the same tongue-and-groove pine that we […]

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214) S.T.T.F. Day 10 (Loft Baseboards)

May 4, 2014

Of all the deficiencies in a house-build, nothing marks “unfinished” like the absence of baseboards.  We just never got around to it. So, in our Sprint To The Finish, we asked Rob to complete the baseboards in the loft. I painted all the primed 1×4 with a colour that matched the wool carpet. Much easier […]

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